***before silicone glue was added.
In preparation for the End of Year Exhibition it was important that made some important superficial refinements to the masks that are going to be displayed in the exhibition. In particular, this regards a silicone patch o the tempt of one of my masks that failed to cure properly. This left it raised above the masks natural surface, making the mask not look quite right.
A a result, I spent a number of hours shaving of multiple layers of the mask in order to produce a flat surface on the patch, whilst making it resemble the original texture of the masks surface. The was a tricky task in that there are no tutorial videos on how to correct faults in silicone masks. This means that I was working blind. Armed with my scalpel, old silicone shavings, and Clear Silicone Glue, I proceeded to cut and fill (with clear glue) the holes made by my shaving off the silicone overlays.
Below are the results…
Clear visual inconsistencies in where the excess silicone had been removed
***details*** left tempt section (after photo)
***close-up details
***finished outcome***
Clay Backing:
In addition, I really wanted to fix the problem of the white foam backing that protrudes through the bottom of the mask. Although it is imperative in allowing the casking to keep its shape, I want the casting to appear free standing, the backing being a part of the mask and not an added extra. The dying materials for the foam are expensive, and so I have decided to go back to using Monster Clay that I will pour into the backside of the casting and allow to harden (these will be repeated 2-3 times) in order to build up a thick enough backing that the foam will no longer ben needs.
Furthermore, the clay when poured can be used not only as a smoothing agent on the outer areas of the casting that remain visible (the is namely the chin section of the casting), but can be used as a filler to the remaining textural inconsistencies of the casting being that it is the same colour as the base colour of the casting.
From initial castings, I know that the clay will be compatible with the silicone in terms of a backing and I think it will form a vital part of the final outcome.
Finished Outcome:
Scrubbing Surface (NAPTHA)
There is a clear smoothness, dust-free aesthetic to the mask after it was scrubbed (using a soft bristle toothbrush), better resembling the skin texture of a real person.
Clay Backing:
(clay poured into back-side of silicone casting)
As you can see using the clay has been ideal in allowing the silicone to appear as if free standing opposed to the foam backing that became obtuse looking when inspecting the cast. Cut and smoothed to resembling the our edges of the cast, it becomes nearly undetectable when looking at the mask from the underside (as can be seen in the image above).
The only issue I have now is how to secure the clay to the casting so there is no separation between the two. This I will tale in the following weeks, however I doubt whether the casting will be handed in the Exhibition so this can be left until the last.
2nd Attempt:
Much like the first, there were adjustments that needed to be made to the casting. The benefits of doing this once before is that I was able to work much quicker, and more extensively with the silicone glue in order to fill the caps left in the cast. As a result, the cast is a lot larger than the original casting, and I was able to better fill the caps making the cast more robust. This means that areas such a the chin were filled compared to be cut or trimmed away which means that I am working a lot more with the original casting size making it almost able to free-stand without the use of the clay backing.
Working over the process of the day, I am to cover up the filled elements with the silicone pigment as well as work with adding hair to the cast. However, to avoid any mistakes this will all be practised on my original cast.
Silicone Filler almost undetectable – It will be even more so when the cast in painted.
There is much more definition in this mask due to the fact I did not over trim the outer order of the mask. As you can see in the picture, there is more detailing in the cheekbone area, making the masking mac larger than my first attempt
Where the silicone filler was added is easily noticed at this stage. Taking about 24 hours to fully cure, it will remain shiny until I wipe it for a second time tomorrow and powder down, making the filler virtually undetectable.
Here the filler to the left temple can barely be seen
Rubbing with NAPTHA really helps to clear the dust and residue from the skins primary layer. In addition it helps to dilute and cure the filler on the mask. This then has to be wiped down again tomorrow once again.
Here you can see that there is little that has to be done to the mask not other than superficial changes. This regards adding hair (eyebrows and nails) as well as colouring to the lips and eye areas.