Head Casting

https://youtu.be/EMDmbZLHioI

Instructions:

• Kryolan Red Head
• Gel 10 LifecastingGel 10 Bald Cap| Latex Glove – Cover hair
  – requires Red Head (to make bald cap)
• Plastil Gel 10 – mixed 1:1 ratio
• pasting a couple of layers (2) mixed 1:1 and brushed over head form (second coat after 10-15 minutes depending on temperature)
• Powder form with baby powder and pull from form
• This is then applied to subject using more Gel 10 to create fluidity in the finish mould- cover subjects head with Vaseline (hair, lashes etc.)
• Gel 10 then applied over entire face and head of sitter (at this point colouring can be added to the mould to make sure coverage is complete)
• Mix with tin-fix as ‘print coat’ which helps with detail
  5 minute cure time
• Careful around eyes and nose- second layer (quarter inch layer with with tin-fix, colouring and poly fibre thickener
• Fibre thickener: will thicken the Gel 10 and will also give a stiffer product for the final mould- put plaster bandages over mould (doing nose last
• Cover the front of face with bandages (then release) before filling in the back side of the cast using bandages, making a 2 part mould
• When preparing to release the back side of the cast, apply Vaseline to the area, then apply bandages and wait until hardened
• Remove the back half of the cast
• Remove the front half of cast
• Make a cut up the back of the head to remove the (original) Gel 10 mould, making sure the bald cap comes of with the Gel 10 mould
• Should form a clean transition
• Seal nose holes with more Gel 10(At this point all the pieces can be put back together and the Easy Flow 120 Casting Resin) to make a hollow negative
• Monster Clay can also be used (this can be remoulded)

Instructions: Painting

• Clean fresh mould with Acetone

Cast face in a light flesh tone in order for detail to be built up with paint

• Use Gel 10 as a paint base
• mix with Solvent Thinner (ventilation) – 40g of Gel 10 with half and half solvent thinner
• Mix together and add (pure silicone) pigments
• Add small amounts to create wash colours to build tone
• Use brushes where bristles won’t fall off and disturb picture
• Apply pigment on the vascular areas (lips, eyes, noes and ears) – over apply with brush and dab away excess
• Dab with paper towel

After each layer clean brushes thoroughly as the gel 10 will catalyse, before moving on to the next colour (use Solvent Thinner)

• set each layer with heat gun (a blow dryer) – stops smudging or bleeding
• DONE GO TO OPAQUE (build colour gradually)
• 30 mins cure time

(example uses red, pink, blue, yellow and d.brown washes) – brown for freckles using cut down brush – have a clean paper towel handy to remove colour freckles and flick on paint

• For more working time (7173 R Retarder in 10 percent with Gel 10 doubles the cure time)
• to remove gloss: powder using transparent face powder (matte) – brush on and off

Instructions:

Supplies

Hydrogel Mould Compound and Plastil Gel 1

Part 1:

The Hydrogel Mould

Need:

• Compound
• Water
• Plastil
• Flesh Tone Pigment

1. Mix at 3:1 (water:Gel) by weight or 1:1:25 by Volume
2. Water then gel before mixing with Drill (at Variable Speeds) – until smooth and creamy
3. Apply a thin film go Hydrogel to skin of the model and make sure there are no air bubbles trapped against the skin
4. Pour remaining Compound Mould around models hand (now in another, clean, separate plastic container)
5. The Model should not use for 5-10 minutes
6. Make sure the model does not touch the sides or bottom of container
7. Once cured, carefully remove the hand of the model – hand should be clean on exit

Part 2: 

Plastic Gel 10

1. Platinum cured silicone with a 1A t 1B ratio by weight or volume. Gel has a 5 minute working time and 30 minute cure time
2. Pour B into mixing container, then add 1 per-cent Fleshtone Pigment and mix thoroughly
3. Add equal amounts of Part A (in terms of weight) and mix thoroughly (make sure to scrape the sides and the bottom of the mixing contains several times as you mix)
4. Once Parts A and B are mixed thoroughly, pour into original Hydrogel Mould (holding mould at a slight angle when doing this will reduce air bubbles being trapped in the mould)
5. Let the Pastil Cure (30 mins)
6. Tear away the Hydrogel mould to remove casting
7. This will peel away very easily to produce a very realistic silicon mould

Moulding a Life-cast

Part 1

• Polygel-35 Brushable Rubber
• Using pre-existing resin lifecast
• Poly ease 2300 – light spray (silicon oil mould release) and use brush to spread oil in surface details
• Murphy soap oil or Shalac to seal plaster casts
• 1:1 ratio by weight or volume mixture
• Colour change to indicate strength of mixture
• Finished picture should be soupy
• ***The longer you leave the the mixture in the pot the thicker the mixture
• Create a flange for later adjustments
• First coat should be a thin, continuous print-coat
• *** Aim to create a quarter-inch thick mould
• 15 minute cure time between layers – depending on room temp – should not be tacky when apply next coat
• *** beginners: can use pigment to make sure coverage is achieved each layer
• Thicker consistency can be applied using a palette knife

Part 2:

Making support shell or Mother-mould

• Allow rubber to cure for 4-5 hours
• apply Johnsons paste Wax (generous layer) and allow to dry
• then apply a generous amount of 2300 Poly-ease mould release
• 15-6 Poly-Liquid Moulding Plastic – basic casting resin @ 1:1
• Mix Part A followed by Part B
• Most accurately measured by weight
• Thicken to paste with Cabasil or Poly-Fibre (16oz.) to reduce to paste (brushable consistency but no to thick or runny) – heat will be building at this point
• 5 min working time
• Apply in 12 coats – 16oz. coat for surface (30 mins), then apply wooden feat (2 by 4) for reverse mould.
• 1/4-3/8 inch mouldy
• 4-5 hours cure time overall
• should turn bone colour
• Pry edges from base and take of ‘mother-mould’ and ‘Poly-mould’
• Should be a complete 2 piece mould with legs for repetitive casting

Sculpting: Open Eyes

• Clay cast into a gelt-tine life cast mould
• Taking the face mould and paste hot clay into the surface of the mould
• Text-Clay (melts at 170 degrees)
• ***Monster Clay or Chavant – Sculpting Mediums
• 3/8 of an inch thickness and leave to cool (1 hours) – still on the soft side
• may need to cast plaster behind the eye for additional strength
• cut into the eyelid – follow nature ark over the eye lid
• Tool: dentil tool) and cut into clay, push through and remove before  and then tidy up.
• ***Video uses a fake eyeball for placement and push through into mould to pushy lid out
• define eyelid with excess clay around fake eyelid
• use photographs of original subject to create realism
• now work out character details from photographs of subject – remove air bubbles and smooth face aspects such as nose and mouth